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Rhubarb: Rheum rhabarbarum

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Saying 'Rhubarb, rhubarb, rhubarb' to some one lets them know that you think they are talking nonsense. It has absolutely nothing to do with the plant itself, a very versatile ingredient in any kitchen.

When I think rhubarb, images of comforting winter desserts spring to mind, for this vegetable relative of sorrel is best known in cold climates.

History & Cultivation

Originating in Northern Asia and Siberia, the first recorded use of rhubarb was in China in 2000BC where its dried root is highly esteemed in Chinese medicine. Rhubarb first appeared in English cookbooks in the 1900’s. In the late 1940’s children in post war Britain were given raw rhubarb stalks with a little sugar to dip them in as a treat. 

There are red and green stemmed varieties of  rhubarb. Most will redden further in cold weather. The plants are perennial and deep rooted and in colder climates they will die down in winter. Champagne rhubarb is created by forcing the early shoots by blanching the stems under terracotta cloches or buckets. This sweetens and tenderizes the stalks but the plant must be rested the following year to recover.

Is it Poison?

Unlike sorrel, it is the stem of rhubarb that is eaten. The leaves contain high doses of oxalic acid and are extremely toxic when ingested (except by snails, who love them!). The leaf does have its uses though. Chopped and covered with boiling water, if you leave overnight (not longer) in a burnt saucepan it will help scour it clean. A caution: never cook rhubarb in an aluminium pot or stand overnight in any metal container or it will pit the surface and leach all kinds of nasties into your meal.

Cooking

Rhubarb is extremely low in calories and has a slightly laxative effect. Its sharp acidic flavour is mellowed by sweetening with sugar, honey or apples. The acidity of rhubarb makes it a perfect foil for oily fish and pork and as a chutney to accompany strong cheese. In Persian cookery it is stewed with beef or lamb to create a dish known as ‘Koresh’ and in Norway it is served as a soup.

In its dessert role it is complimented and enhanced by apple, orange, ginger, cinnamon and angelica and is gently stewed, baked or added raw to cakes, muffins and desserts before they are cooked. 

Rhubarb has never been particularly fashionable in the food industry. It is highly versatile, easy to grow and cheap to buy in season. Try it!

 

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